شعور الاغتراب بشع جدا لكنه واحدٌ من أقوى مسببات انفتاح العقل وترسيخ خلق التقبل فلا شيء أشد من أن تعيش في آن واحد شعور الرهبة من الغريب والرغبة في الدخول لعالمه
عاشت كلودي فايان في إحدى الأمكنة الساحرة للقلب والعين ، كانت امرأة باريسية جرئية كعطر فرنسي يستعرض بانبعاث عبقه بين الممرات
جائتها الفرص لزيارة اليمن على طبق (لم يكن) من ذهب ، فهي الأربعينية والزوجة والأم لعدد من الأطفال
وهذا مايجعل أي محاولة للمغامرة بحسب قولها ” في عداد المستحيلات”
إلا أنها قررت السفر كممرضة وودعت باريس وهي ترتدي أحلى ثيابها لتمضي للمجهول في بلد يسمى (اليمن) وتمضي فيه عاماً كاملا لا يكاد يمر عليها يوم إلا وتقابل الناس وتتأمل معاشهم ساعدتها مهنتها كطبيبة في معرفة تفاصيل لاتتاح لأي أحد !
تقول : (فعندما يستلقي رجل مريض مجرد من ملابسه أمام رجل آخر يرتدي ملابسه كاملة ويرجو على يديه الشفاء ، تنشأ بينهما علاقة لامثيل لها )
لقد كتَبت عن الشعب اليمني واليمن في كتابها (كنت طبيبة في اليمن) برقّة تليق بأهل الإيمان والحكمة ..
ومحاولتي هنا تشبه مهمة (متفوق\ـة) الدفعة في الجامعة الذي يقوم بعملية تلخيص المقرر الدراسي في صفحات موجزة ،
وسأسرد الأحداث المتفرقة والمتناثرة في آكام الكتاب بترابط على لسانها مع تصرف بسيط :
وبعد.. فإني سأتحدث عما قليل عن أولئك الذين عرفتهم هناك ، ساتحدث عن الرجال والنساء والأطفال والأمراء والجنود ،
إنني لا أدعي أني رسمت صورة كاملة فقد قصصت بكل بساطة ما استطعت أن أعرفه من حياتهم وفي أي المناسبات التقت حياتي بحياتهم ولكني قبل أن أتناول تلك الأقاصيص :
أجد من اللائق أن أحيي المؤثر الرئيسي في حياتهم ذلك الموجود في كل مكان الذي يسمع دبيب النملة السوداء على الصخرة الصماء في الليلة الظلماء إنه يعرف كل شيء …إنه شاهد أبدي ورفيق لا يمل، وهم يرددون اسمه في كل وقت وبلا انقطاع …وهو ذات يجب الوصول اليها ، وقد انتهى اليمنيون إلى معرفة ذلك .
لقد قال لي مرة عامل الإمام (أحمد) في ذمار :
«إن اليمن مثل البطيخة.. القشرة الخارجية صلبة ولكن الداخل طيب حسن..»
وليعرف الإنسان قيمة اليمن ينبغي ألا يطوف بها مسافرا شرها للصور النادرة الثمينة فقط ،
يطلب كل شيء ولايقدم شيئا !
إن هذا لايحبه اليمنيون ففيهم أنفة وإباء، يجب أن تذهب إليهم ببساطة ..بمهنة طيبة في يديك ورغبة صادقة في أن تنفعهم وهنا لن تجد فشرة صلبة تقاوم .
علمتني التجربة في اليمن أن الإنسان يستطيع أن يفعل ما يشاء شرط أن يكون في صحبته جندي مسلح..
إنه أحسن جواز مرور يمكن أن يخطر على بال إنسان،
كان عليّ إذا أن أصطحب عسكريي الخاص وبندقيته.. وكان العسكري المكلف بحمايتي أسمه (حفظ الله)،
كان قبيحا ذا وجه صغير لطفل ضحوك ساذج نحيف قتل رجلين قبل الآن ثم خرج من السجن !
!وعند باب المدينة نرى المحدادة أو مكان السمكرة،
عفواً إنه مركز البوليس الذي يسوقون إليه من يشاؤون ليكبلوه بالسلاسل الحديدية..
فيكفي في اليمن أن يكون لانسان أي نفوذ طبيعي أو قانوني وأن يكون غير راضٍ عن شخص ليأمر بأن يكبّل بالحديد.
عرفت للمرة الأولى “بيت الماء” الذي لا يخلو منه بيت يمني..
وهو دورة مياه ومكان للطهارة ، الطهارة التي لاتزال نادرة في ريفنا ففي اليوم الذي كان جميع أهل اليمن يجعلون دورة مياه في بيوتهم .. كان من النادر فعل ذلك في أرياف فرنسا !
ورغم أن اليمنيين قصار القامة فإنهم وسيمون في الغالب وهم من الجنس العربي البحت فيما عدا إقليم الحديدة .
إن ملامحهم منتظمة وجميلة ولحاهم قصيرة تكسو الوجه دون أن تغطيه ،
ومما يلفت اليهم الأنظار أن عيونهم دوما مخضبة بالكحل ولليمنيات وجوه ممتقعة شاحبة ،
وملامح متناسقة ، وهن يستعملن أصباغاً كثيرة ولا يكتفين بالروج للشفاه والخدود والأظافر،
بل الكحل أيضا الذي يجسم الحواجب ويضع نقطاً دقيقة تحت الفم وعلى الجباه…
بل إن بعض النساء يرسمن أشكالا تزين صدورهن وتنزل مابين النهدين ،
ولكن هذه النعمة لا يعرفها إلا الزوج والطبيب ، فالنساء يلبسن ويتزين في حدود (الحياء) تماما كزوجة الأمير التي التقينا بها في حمام علي .
أما عن ملابسهم فمن الصعب إعطاء فكرة عن تعدد غطاء الرأس في اليمن ،
فلاصلة له بالخمار السعودي البسيط الذي يعاب عليه أنه يقصر الوجه ولا العمة الهندية المكورة البيضاء السائدة في عدن ، إن العمامة هنا يمكن أن تكون حمراء أو خضراء أوزرقاء أو صفراء ، بسيطة أو مطرزة ، مائلة على العين أو على العنق أو على الجانب يتدلى هدبها على الكتف أو يثبت بالريش أو الزهور
وتبدي نساء صنعاء جرأة وشجاعة كبيرة في المغامرات العاطفية ،
فقد سلمت عجوز يوما لصديقي المهندس عود ثقاب وسيجارة وكعكة وقطعة من الحلوى وزهرة ،
وهمست في أذنه قائلة (لقد بعثتها لك امرأة ..علك تفكر فيها ) واعطته عنوان المكان الذي يمكن الحصول فيه على ما تبقى .
والمرأة المجربة الخبيرة إذا وقع اختيارها على رجل فإنها تعرف كيف ترغبه وكيف تقوده إلى الزواج بها ،
وعندهم مثل يقول : الأهل يأتون بالزوج الأول ..أما الأزواج الآخرون فالمرأة هي التي تجذبهم ،
وهذا كله لا يتاح للفتيات الصغيرات فالصغيرة أقاربها مسؤولون عن سلوكها .والنساء هنا _في صنعاء_أكثر مرحا وجمالا من تلك الأشباح البائسة التي يلتقيها الإنسان في أحياء تعز ،
إن نساء الريف الغنيات في الواقع أسعد نساء اليمن .إن المرأة في اليمن تحسد المرأة الغربية على تمتعها بأشياء كثيرة منها الذهاب للمحلات التجارية ودور السينما!
ولكنها لا تطمع في حياة أكثر صراحة وأكثر فائدة ، لقد خضّبت النساء ذات يوم قدمي بأشكال صغيرة سوداء على الطريقة اليمنية ، وأقدام النساء هنا ناعمة كخد طفل وليد ، أما أقدامي فقد كانتا لسوء الحظ خشنتين كقدمي أي عاملة شريفة وكانوا في دهشة واشمئزاز ورحمة رغم أني شرحت لهن أنني أنا التي أحيا ولسن هن ،وأنا التي أعيش هنا في صميم الحياة أما هن فعلى هامشها ، فلم يأسفن على شيء ،
ولم تجعل لي حياتي النشيطة أي مكانة بين هؤلاء الحريم!
لقد كن يسألنني عن الأشياء الفرنسية السطحية عن الموضة والأغاني وعن طريقة تقديم الطعام في الولائم الكبيرة أما عن شؤون القلب فلم يكن يحسدننا على احتكارنا المشروع لزوجٍ حبيب،
والرجال يستخدمونهن هنا كسلعة .. سلعة للذة والتسلية أو آلات لانتاج الأطفال والشيء الذي يعامل كسلعة يصبح وضيعاً والتقيت بعمدة زبيد قدمت له زجاجة عطر سُرّ منها كثيرا فالعطور أحب الهدايا وأعزها عند اليمني ،
وعرفانا منه بالجميل عرض علي الزواج وحجّته أن له زوجتين ولكنهما لم تنجبا له طفلا ، وقد اختارني للقيام بهذه المهمة !!ولكني عارضت وقلت له : إن صاحب الجلالة قد كلفني بالعناية بالمرضى في صنعاء .
لقد عرفت الكثير من الصغيرات مزوّجات ومخطوبات ولم أتبين لذلك ضررا ويندر أن تحمل الفتاة خلال المرحلة الأولى لبلوغها وعسر الولادة ينتج عن سوء التغذية أكثر مما ينتج عن النمو الجسمي غير الكامل للأم الشابة ،
وفي نظام الحريم تعد الفتيات الصغيرات إعدادا نفسيا ممتازا ويعرف الأزواج كيف يحصلون على ما يردونه من متع ولذات ولم أعرف أثناء إقامتي في اليمن إلا استثناء واحداً .
هنا .. يبتُّ الإمام في المسائل من أهمها وأخطرها إلى أقلها شأنا ويقضي فيها الإمام نهائيا دون استئناف
إن الإمام هو من يقرر إذا كان معلم في أحد الأقاليم النائية بحاجة إلى عشر محابر !!
إن الإنسان يصاب بالذهول حين يعلم أن رئيس الدولة يتدخل في التوافه ، فكيف يقبل رجل ذكي أن يحشر أنفه في كل شيء ؟هل يريد أن يتفادى الإسراف ؟ إنه أمرمفزع ،
وقد سألت كثيرين عن الأمر وأفضل جواب سمعته: كان أجداد الإمام يحكمون هكذا فإذا لم يحكم مثلهم فإنه يشعر بأنه سيكون أقل منهم شأنا ومقاما .
احتجت مرة أن أفحص دمَ امرأةٍ فقيرةٍ مريضة، لكن المسؤولين رفضوا أن نستخدم المعمل، بحُجة أن الإمام غائب، وانقضَت عشرةُ أيام،
ثم جاء الفرَج، حيث مرِض أميرٌ صغير مرَضاً تافهاً،
فقلت لهم: لا بُد من فحص بوله في المعمل، فقالوا: يمكنكِ استخدامه حالاً لكنهم راقبوني،
حتى لا نفحصَ بولاً أو دماً آخر غير بول الأمير، فأُسْقِط في يدي، ومريضتي توشك أن تموت،
فكذبَت عليهم وقلت إن الأمير الصغير مصابٌ بالسّكّر، ولا بُد من مجيئي كل يوم إلى المعمل
فراقبني وزير الصحة ومدير المستشفى والصيادلة،
لكني حينما صرت آتي للمعمل كل يوم ملّوا، وتركوني دون رقابة،
ففحصَت عيّنة دم المريضة الفقيرة، وعرفَت مرضها، وعالجتها، وشُفِيَت،
ونقلت حينها للمسؤولين بعد أيام : أن الأميرالصغيرقد شُفِيَ من السُّكّر!
تقول كلودي فايان معتذِرَةً: ففي جانب، شابٌّ مُفرِط السُّمنة حُرِم من السّكّر خمسة عشرَ يوماً – تعني الأمير – وفي الجانب الآخر امرأةٌ كانت تعاني خطر الموت فشُفِيَتْ،
وأعترف أني من أولئك الذين يرون أن بعض الغايات تبرّر بعض الوسائل!
وإذا سخِطَ أصدقائي العرب وحنقوا عليّ، فسأردّ عليهم بقولٍ جميلٍ مكتوب في خاتم في صنعاء:
“عند الضرورة، الله وحده هو الحَكم”
في اليمن .. ميناء حديث ..أعمال ري عظيمة.. طرق معبدة في كل بقعة مناجم لم تستغل .. هذا كله طيب وجميل شرط أن يكون شعب اليمن هو نفسه الذي يجني ثمار عمله الجديد ولتبق ثروات اليمن الدفينة في جوف الأرض، لايغتني بها الإقطاعيون يمنيين كانوا أو غير يمنيين
فإذا كانت الطريق الصحيحة السليمة ليست اليوم مفتوحة أمام اليمن فلتبق كما هي انتظارا لظروف تاريخية أحسن وهذا أفضل ألف مرة ..
وحتى تظل مسستودعا للرجال الذين لم يتلوثوا ..الذين يفيضون ايمانا وذكاء وهذه ثروة نادرة أندر من المناجم البكر التي لم يستغلها أحد بعد ،
وسيأتي اليوم الذي تستطيع اليمن أن تسير فيه وتنطلق بحرية .
وإني وأنا أودع أصدقائي اليمنيين، لا أفكر في أوجاعهم وآلامهم ولكني أفكر في صفاتهم، في قلوبهم وأذهانهم، في رغبتهم الصادقة العفوية في الإصلاح، تلك الرغبة التي ظلت قوية فيهم لأنهم أحرار، لا يعلقون التقدم الحديث على وجود أجنبي يتحكم في بلادهم.
لقد اتصلت كلودي فايان باليمن عام 1951م ، عبر كتابها وقد قالت ويحسن به الختام :
إننا لانتتج الكتب إلا لكي نبقى على صلة بالبشر فيما وراء الموت فنذود بذلك عن أنفسنا ضد العدو الألد لكل حياة ، ضد الزمن الذي يمضي .. ضد النسيان
“قضيت هنا أمتع ليالي الشرق وكان يدور في خلدي ” (العمل الصالح لايضيع أبداً) .
محمد أحمد بارحمة
1 ذوالحجة 1440هـ
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