أتذكر جيداً تلك المرة التي وقعت فيها عيناي على كتاب للعلامة محمد بن ناصر العبودي، كان عنوانه “زيارة لسلطنة بروناي الإسلامية”، لم أكن أعرف ما هي بروناي، وما كان لي أن أعرف لولا تلك الصدفة التي جمعت بيني وبين ذلك الكتاب؛ فهي دولة بعيدة، صغيرة، لم تطرأ لي إليها حاجة، ولا أظنها ستطرأ، على أن الغيب بيد الله، وفي الغيب عجائب لا تحصى ولا تحصر.
كنت طفلاً، ربما في الصف الرابع الابتدائي حين رأيت ذلك الكتاب في مكتبة بيت خالتي، قرأتُه،، أعجبني جداً، ووجدتني أسافر مع المؤلف بخيال طفلٍ لم تفلح المدرسة في تخريبه بعد، كنت أتفرج من الطيارة -ولم أكن ركبت الطيارة في تلك السن- على بروناي، الخضراء المتخمة ماءً، وأتأمل تقاسيم وجوه الناس وألوان ملابسهم وخضرة أشجارهم وبنيان مساجدهم، وأذهب برفقة المؤلف لزيارة سلطان بروناي ووالده، وكانت سياحة جانيةً، ذهبت فيها إلى أقصى جنوب شرق آسيا ثم عدت إلى حي الطندباوي بمكة لأكتشف أني لم أغادره أصلاً.
كان ذلك الكتابُ شيئاً عجاباً، لأنه فتح لي باباً عظيماً إلى كتب العلامة العبودي في الرحلات، والتي قرأت منها ما لا يقل عن مئة وأربعين كتاباً على مر السنوات فيما بعد، كنتُ أقرأ كتبه بنهم، وأشعر بعد الفراغ من قراءة كل كتاب بشعور من يتمضمض ولا يشرب، وينفعل ولا يفعل، ويقارب ولا يقارف، كان شعوراً لذيذاً لولا أنه يورث حسرة خفية.
أحببت كثيراً أن أكون رحالة، يتنقل بين البلدان، وتخيلتني أفعل هذا كثيراً، طافت بي أحلام اليقظة في كل مكان يمكن تخيله، وظل الواقع دائماً أقل من الأحلام.
في المرحلتين: المتوسطة والثانوية كان يُنظّم في مدرستي خمس رحلات سنوية: رحلة للمستجدين من طلاب الصف الأول المتوسط، ورحلتان إلى المدينة المنورة، ومخيمان في أماكن تتفاوت قرباً وبعداً عن مكة، وكنت أشارك في تلك الرحلات، وكان يحدث أحياناً أن تنظَّم رحلة إلى الطائف أو المدينة المنورة برفقة العائلة، أو مع حلقة التحفيظ، وارتقى الحال فصرت أسافر مع المركز الصيفي إلى أماكن أبعد، إلى الباحة، وأبها، وتبوك، والدمام، ونحو ذلك.
وطال الوقت قبل أن تسنح لي فرصة السفر إلى الخارج! وكانت فرصةً تليق بمبتدئ في عالم السفر: إلى البحرين للمشاركة بمؤتمر، ثم انفرط العقد وإن كانت الخرزان في سبحتي قليلة العدد، مررت بدول الخليج في زيارات متعددة الأسباب: للعمل، أو للمشاركة بمؤتمر، أو لحضور دورة تدريبية، أو للبحث عن وظيفة، وتفاوتت المدد بين بضعة أيام وبضعة أشهر، وكنت في غالبها أسافر وحدي وأعود وحدي، ولم أنفق في جل تلك السفرات قرشاً واحداً، فقد كنت أدعى فألبي، وأمضي محمولاً مكفولاً.
وتقلبت بي الدنيا بين عدد من الوظائف، وكان آخرها -أيام إقامتي بالسعودية- العمل مدرباً لمادتي: العمل التطوعي، وريادة الأعمال الاجتماعية، واقتضى مني هذا العمل أن أتجول في المدن السعودية المختلفة، شمالا وجنوبا وشرقا وغربا، وكنت أفضل السفر بسيارتي وحيداً على السفر بالطائرة، لما يتيحه لي السفر بالسيارة من الانفراد بنفسي في البرية، والتأمل بلا حدود في آفاق النفس الشاسعة أو في الآفاق الممتدة أمامي من الصحراء الصفراء، ولما يتيحه السفر بالسيارة من توفير لقيمة تذكرة الطائرة، وتسهيل للتنقل في البلد المقصود بسيارة مملوكة لا مستأجرة.
أما خارج إطار الجزيرة العربية، فقد مضيت مرة إلى ماليزيا لأشارك في ملتقى، وعاودت زيارتها ثانيةً بعد ست سنوات، وزرت السودان زيارة قصيرة، وزرت تركيا مرةً أمضيت فيها شهراً كاملاً، سافرت وحدي، بلا لغة، ولا كثير مال ولا خبرة ولا كثير استشارة، كان شهراً جميلاً، وكانت تجربة شجاعة بعض الشيء، ولم يطل بي المقام بعد تلك السفرة إلا عاماً واحداً سافرت بعده إلى تركيا، هذه المرة بنية الانتقال إليها والتموضع بها حتى حينٍ يعلمه الله.
في إسطنبول أمضيت أياماً قليلة أصارع فيها هذه المدينة التي لا تبالي بالغريب، مدينة قاسيةٌ فظيعة على من لا يعرف كيف يتحرك فيها، ثم مضيت إلى أنقرة لأمكث بها يوماً أو يومين فلبثت فيها سبعة أشهر، وكانت أنقرة مفتتحاً حسناً للحياة في تركيا، فقد وجدت فيها الهدوء والراحة، والحياة البسيطة، والقابلية للاستكشاف، وأحببتها حباً لا أعرف كيف أبرره أو أفسره، وكان من فضل أنقرة علي أن أتاحت لي السفر إلى مدن مختلفة من تركيا، ويكاد يكون لكل مدينة من مدن تركيا طابعها الشخصي الذي إن فقدته فقدت مبر بقائها في الذاكرة، سافرت إلى نحو عشرين مدينة في تركيا، وحدي في الغالب أو مع رفيق واحد في بعض الأحيان.
سكاريا بعماراتها القصيرة وجامعتها الرائعة المشرفة على بحيرة صبانجا، وإزميت، المدينة التي تبدو رائعة من الخارج فإذا دخلتها لم تر فيها ما يعجب ولا ما يدهش، وصبانجا التي ظننتني حين زرتها أمشي في شارع التحلية بجدة أو الرياض، من كثرة ما ترى العين من العباءات السود وكثرة ما تسمع الأذن من اللهجة السعودية، وبورصة المدينة الفضية التي تبدو مزرعةً كبيرةً ملأى بأشجار الزيتون وترتاح فيها النفس راحة لا مبرر لها، وأضنة التي ازدريتها لما دخلتها من أقبح أحيائها وأقلها أماناً وأكثرها فاقةً، ثم انتهى بي المطاف في بحيرتها الرائعة، بحيرة “شوكوروفا” الفاتنة التي لم يهيأ أكثر شواطئها للسياح، وإيسكي شهير، التي راعني ما رأيت فيها من مظاهر “التحرر” حتى عددت أنقرة العلمانية مدينةً شديدة المحافظة حين تقارن بها، وعشاق التي ما زرتها إلا براً بصديق يقيم فيها، ووجدت بها ذلك الصدع العظيم الذي يقصده الناس من أنحاء العالم ليروه. وأنطاليا التي سحرني منها الجزء القديم منها وأطربني منظر بحرها وجبالها الشواهق، وقونيا التي زرتها مرة بعد مرة، فلم تعجبني في الأولى، ولكنها أسكرتني حباً لها في الثانية! وطرابزون التي يميزها ذلك الفضول الذي يميز أهلها حتى ليكادون يأكلونك بأعينهم، وعنتاب التي ظننتني وأنا أمشي بأزقتها أتجول في “باب الحارة”، وأماسيا الساحرة التي تقع بين جبلين مهيبين ويمر بوسطها نهر ضحل المياه لكنه حسن الشكل، ومدن أخرى لا بد أنها سقطت سهواً.
لا تزال في القائمة مدنٌ أخرى لم تسنح الفرصة لزيارتها بعد: إزمير، وأدرنة، وجناق قلعة، وبودروم، وماراماريس، وفتحية، وألانيا، ومرسين، وأورفة، وماردين، وديار بكر، وملاطيا، وإسبارطة، وسيرت، وريزة، وغيرسون، وأوردو، وسامسون، وكابادوكيا، وسيمون، وما لا نعلم ولا تعلمون!
التجول في الداخل التركي ليس نهاية المطاف ولا خاتمة الطموح بالنسبة لي، فثمة الكثير من البلدان التي أطمع أن أزورها ذات يوم، يسر الله لنا ما نحب مما يرضى ويحب!
ويحضرني وأنا أهم باختتام هذه التدوينة بيتان لطيفان قالهما شاعر حكيم:
وطول مقام المرء في الحي مخلقٌ لديباجتيه فاغترب تتجدد
فإني رأيت الشمس زيدت محبة إلى الناس أن ليست عليهم بسرمد!
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