حكايا القاهرة ..(للناطقين بغير المصرية) :
نحن مدينون للأمكنة التي لايعرفنا فيها أحد ، وهي كثيرة بالطبع
لكنني أعني الأمكنة التي يبقى الانسان فيها عفويا ، يرتدي ملابس وموديلات زمن الثورة الإيرانية دون مواربة ، ويقبض على نفسه مقنّعه بسلوك دفين .
هنا مطار القاهرة والساعة الرابعة عصراً ..
أتمنى أن أقرأ عن سكولوجية العابرين في المطار ،
ثمة مشاعر تحتاج الرصد ، الطوارئ .. طي صفحات الغربة .. اللقاء المنتظر .. الهيام دون خطة .. ادرينالين اللجوء ..الأبواب الموصدة..
استلمت حقيبتي ..وأول موقف يعارضك في المدينة يحدد مزاج الرحلة !
عارض وجهي أحدهم : ” بص ، انته باين عليك شاب محترم ، وانا عندي عربية موديل 2018 …”
كانت هذه أول عملية تعرّض لأسلوب “التسويق الغصبي” الذي ينفرد به أحبابنا المصريين ، كنت أكرر بين كل كلمة وكلمة يقولها :
“شكرا، شكرا، شكرا ”
قال بيأس ويداه مفتوحتين : دماغك ناشف ياعم !
قصدت تاكسي آخر ولا أملك إلا صفع نفسي لأنه لايقل أجرةً عن عربية صاحبنا السابق ،
ولاتفسير سوى أن البني آدم فعلاً دماغه ناشف !
في الطريق للفندق شدني شيئين :هنا الناس تمشي ورأسها للأسفل !!
والإعلانات المعلقة تكاد لكثرتها تعتقل الطريق وتخفي وجه السماء !
صاحب التاكسي يعّرفنا على القاهرة .. المصريين غالبا لديهم طاقة في الكلام ، مالم تكن مهيأ نفسيا لمجاراتها إقرأ على روحك السلام ،، حدثتني نفسي أن أقول أكثر من مرة : “عوزك توصلني وانته ساكت” ، لكني فضّلت الدعاء بأن يمنحني الله التماسك !
يشبه المصريون طلاب جامعة البترول حين يخبرونك أنهم من جامعة البترول دون أن تسألهم ..
تجد المصري يبادر بالتعريف بنفسه : أنا عندي 28 سنة وباباي عنده 30 سنوات بالسعودية وهكذا ، وهم من الشعوب الأكثر انفتاحا في الصداقات .
وصلنا الفندق ، في الريسبشن فتاة لديها ظفيرتين على كتفها مشدوتين تشبه في جدّيتها منظر المستعدات للمدرسة ، وكلما حركتهما حركت قلوب العابرين ، وبالقرب منها شايب عايب نزيل في الفندق جالس يتفرج مباراة !
دعوت الله حسن الظن .
في الفندق شرفة عتيقة الجمال تطل على حتة صغنونة من النيل ، صادفتنا في تلك الليالي السبتمبرية أجواء زاكية ومريحة .
نزلت في جولة مع (خ) الذي جمعتني به مكة ونادي الريان ، قضينا إلى نصف الليل تحدثنا عن الليبرالية والاحتباس الحراري وأحجار على رقعة الشطرنج وتيران وصنافير،والغلو في الدين،
وناقشنا لماذا قال الشافعي : من لم يتزوج بمصرية لم يتزوج ، وفي رواية فليس بمحصن !!
وأرجعت السبب لمزاج نفسي عند الإمام الشافعي، ولدي دليل واقعي انطلى على صديقي (خ) وهو أن الشافعي مازار تركيا والمغرب ليحكم جيداً ،وحين زار اليمن رحمه الله لم يتركوا له فرصة فقد سرق اليمنيون حذائه !!
مررنا بميدان التحرير ، يالله ..
هنا أعلى فنتازيا أخرجها العالم العربي ..
هنا هتف الشعب بصوت واحد :
حسني مبارك .. بااااااااااااطل
جمال مبارك .. باااااااااااااطل
الحزب الواطي .. بااااااااااااطل
أحمد عز .. بااااااااااااااطل
هتافات : علّ وعلّ وعلّ الصوت .. اللي حيهتف مش حيموت .
ولايجيبك سوى أنغام تبعثها الذاكرة بصوت أم كلثوم : كاان صرحاً من خيال فهوى!
ختمنا ليلتنا بصحن من كشري البرنس يجرُّ معه العافية .
القاهرة لو جاز التشبيه تذكرني بحي العتيبية بمكة قديماً ، في صخبها ..ومرحها ..وشعبيتها..وتسكع الناس حتى وقت متأخر..وخفة ظل أهلها .
وعلى ذِكر ” خفة الظل” وهي صفة تجري في عروق المصري دون كلفة ، كنا جلوساً في حال سبيلنا، مرّ عجوز بالقرب منا وقال بصوت عال : صلوا عالنبي يارجاله ..
قلت بحسن نية وصوت واضح : اللهم صل وسلم عليه
رد : اللي صلى عالنبي يدفع !!!!
ماكنت اعتقد الإبداع في الطلب يصل إلى هذا الحد والمستوى المرِح !!
حتى سائقوا التاكسي هناك حين تكون معهم بكامل قواك النفسية ما إن تطلق قفشة إلا وينبعث بسليقته ليخترع أخرى في مصفوفة لامتناهية .
يرى عبدالوهاب المسيري بأن حب المصري للنكتة يعود إلى تجربة تاريخية طويلة جعلته يعيش كثيرا من التناقضات ولحظات انتصار وانكسار وقوة وعجز .
في يومٍ فتحت الشرفة ، كان الجو غائما ومريحا ، أتحاشى استخدام الجوال في تلك اللحظات التي تسجد فيها الروح
أجبرتني الأجواء على النزول ، حنثت بأن آخذ جولة في النيل ، طفت الأمكنة لأجد لو خشبة أطوف بها ، دلني أحد المارين على مكان.. سابقت الزمن وحين وصلت وجدت رجلاً يدخن وينظر لسيجارته ، عادة الذين ينظرون للسيجارة أثناء التدخين يبدون بمزاج عالي !
وجدت بغيتي عنده وتشارعنا في السعر ، قدمت تنازلاً على مضض، كان ذلك عسيرا على حضرمي تعود الانتصار !!
القارب يتسع لقرابة العشرين راكبا ، وجدتني وحيدا (لا بأس)
قدم لي كأس شاي كثر الله خيره ، كان عبارة عن سكر وماء ، (لابأس أيضا)
تموضعت للتامل ،لكنه بثرني بأسئلته ، وكلما أردت الاسترخاء طرأ بسؤال وتلميح بالبخشيش
قلت ليتك يامحمد جالس في البلكونة !
لاشيء يعدل خرير الماء في تعديل المزاج وانتشاء الفؤاد ، كيف لو كان خرير نهر نبعه الجنة (النيل) ،
نسأل الله سكناها.
عدتُ ..
في حي الدقي مطعم مشهور، أمامه بسطة لبائع كتب يبيع متفرقات ، صدمت بوجود كتاب المعالم لسيد ، دققت في وجه البائع وقلت بالتأكيد مناورة مخابراتية !!
زار أحد الحضارم مصر وسكن بالدقي فأعجبته ، فكتب قصيدة معارضا قصيدة علي بن الجهم :
عيون المها بين الزمالك والدقي**يصيرن كل الناس في الأسر والرقّ!
ولا يصيبك بالأسر والرق إلا عطف الأم المصرية ، حقيقة كان أكثر باعث على العاطفة لدي ، يوم أرى سيدة مصرية بجانب طفلها ، موقف طبيعي ، قد تراه في أي مكان، أما في مصر ترى مغناطيس رحمة يحذبك.
وإلا ..أين تجد من يدعوا لابنه : يارب أشوفك أمير !؟ فقط في مصر .
يحكي الشيخ يوسف عبدالله بأن أمه كانت تخصه بدعاء غريب :
“ربنا يحبب فيك الرب في عرشه ، والجندي في فرشه ، ويجعل في وشّك (وجهك) جوهره، وفي حنكك(فمك) سكره ،وربنا يحبب فيك الحصى في الأراضي ، ويجعل لك في كل سكّة سلامة “
يوم الأحد بداية الفصل الدراسي الأول بسبتمبرالماضي ،القاهرة كلها في الشارع ، تعوّد المصريون على ذلك
فدخول سيارة على آخرى لايستثير أحد ،بل مقبول كمن يلقي التحية على الآخر !
وقد وصف ذلك ابن ظهير وهو في القرن التاسع الهجري: “أجمع المسافرون والسائحون في بلاد الله الشاسعة ، أنه ليس في الدنيا تحت السماء من مشرقها إلى مغربها مدينة _كالقاهرة_ أعمر بكثرة الخلق منها ، لاينقطع الزحام بشوارعها العظيمة ”
ثم عقب ابن ظهير وأظنه تعقيب يختصر مصر في شؤونها كلها “ومن لم يكن متيقظا يداس فيها بسرعة ” .
تجولت في شارع المعز لدين الله الفاطمي وهو الحاكم الذي قيل فيه :
ماشئت لاما شاءت الأقدار
فاحكم فأنت الواحد القهار!
ثم مات المعز كما مات غيره ومات قائل القصيدة ولا أحد محور الكون .
شارع المعز الناضح بأريج التاريخ وعبقه ، يقول تميم البرغوثي عن هذا الشارع : (هو سجل لحكام مصر في الزمن الغابر) ترى في ناحيته الوفاء بين الزوجين.. والحضارة.. والعلم.. والإيمان.
قبة الصالح نجم الدين أيوب وهي هدية من زوجته شجرة الدر، مسجد الحاكم بأمر الله ، مدرسة الظاهر برقوق ،وسبيل نفيسة البيضاء ، بعد الظهر رأيت طلابا وطالبات في شارع المعز ملابسهم تشبه رخام المكان ، تميل للصفرة أضفت على اللقطة جمال وبهاء ، يتغزلن ببعضهن ويشاكسن بعضهن ، ، ولاغرابة فالحب سافر إلى مصر إذا صدقنا رواية أن الشاعرين العاشقين جميل العذري المشهور بجميل بثينة وكثيّر عزة ماتا فيها !
لا أمات الله الحب في نفوسكم أيها المصريين .
خالفت تاج الدين الفزاري يوم قال ” إن من أقام في مصر سنة وجد في أخلاقه رقة وحسنا”
أقول يكفي أن تسير وقلبك حاضرا ً في (شارع المعز) لتجد في أخلاقك رقة وحسناً !
هنا يأكل الناس الحيوانات الجميلة : الفراخ والوز والأرانب ، عمي حفظه الله يقول مابقي شيء ما أكلوه ماشاء الله.
وتفطر أحلى فول وطعمية وكاسة شاهي شديدة الحمرة تردد معها : تحيا مصر .
مصر بمجرد أن تدخلها..تخرج كشافعي بفقه ومعنى جديد ..
لم أقع في حب مصر، لكني وقعت في إجلالها ،وسرى منها في روحي فيض صوفي.
لعل ذلك بأني زرتها بين الشتاء والخريف ، وكما يقول نزار :
وما بين فصل الخريف، وفصل الشتاءْ ..
هنالكَ فَصْلُ أُسَمِّيهِ فصلَ البكاءْ ..
تكون به النفسُ أقربَ من أيِّ وقتٍ مضى للسماءْ “
أعاذ الله مصر من الاكتئاب وبلّغها رائعة الفجر!
محمد أحمد بارحمة
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